Monday, February 22, 2010

Day 66 Mandalay Hill

As some of you might remember I had lost my alarm clock. Not much of a problem in this country as you go to bed so early you couldn't possibly oversleep but I had an early call the next morning and needed to replace my lost friend. I thought that this was a perfect time to visit a market! How I haven't done that in a few days and now with the perfect reason.

The market for lack of a better word was complete crap. I mean literal crap. I have never seen such an unispiring pile of crap for sale. I am pleased to say that I was able buy the coolest alarm clock and learn how to work it. IT is small, square and pink. Every time you turn it on a new side it does something different. One side is a clock, next an alarm, temperature and finally timer. All this for a big two dollars. I think I found a winner. Now the challenge is to not leave it behind.

Though feeling tired and sick I felt that as it was my last day in Mandalay I needed to see Mandalay hill. I took a treshaw, seat connected to a bike, out to the hill and got hiking. It is a horrible time of year to try and see the view of pagodas and temples as it is before rainy season and there was loads and loads of dust in the air. However, it wasn't a lost cause. I found some super duper cute kids to play with and it was pretty priceless to see how excited they were to see me come back down the mountain.

Later that night I met up with the Canadian Guy, J, and a few traveleres from Hong Kong for dinner and a Marionette show. Dinner was pretty nice. We went to a foreign restaurant and ordered burgers and fry. I say fry because there was one or two per plate. The show was fun to watch but was pretty confusing. There was a story, none of us knew what was going on.....but still it was pretty interesting. A great way to end Mandalay as I leave early in the morning for Bagan.

Day 65 continued....Ubein's Bridge

Ubein's Bridge is the longest teak bridge in the world. We were there to get our "lonely planet" shot as the cover of the current Myanmar lp is a great picture of locals doing the daily commute across the bridge. After much debate we decided to walk over and boat back for the sunset. It was the best decision ever! However, there was one person who wasn't so stoked at our choice. A boat driver wanted us to come with him and he wasn't giving up. Once we started walking he paced us along the bridge. Now I say paced because when we stopped, he stopped. There was no question of who we were riding back with but I wish I would have known he had a whole in his boat. Nothing major but he was bailing out water quite often.....

It is crazy to think that this bridge still has a practical everyday use. Many people walk across it to get home from work and monks commute from the nearby monestary to collect their alms for the day.

The ride was awesome with a beer in hand and the sunset was perfect. I got some great pictures and just tried to take in the very different way of life I was observing.

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The best sunset in the world

Day 65 Pagoda hill and Inwa

Today I got up and did some sight seeing. Most of the gems of Mandalay lay outside the city limits so it is a necissity to get yourself a tuk tuk and make a day of it. I split the ride with a guy from Canada and we got on pretty well while we went from hill to pagoda to horse cart to bridge and finally boat. Yes it was quite the day.

The first stop was a stroll up this hill near the river to take in the view and see all the pagodas. It was nice and hot and I got a few pictures. It was a nice view but worth the hike?

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Next we stopped at of the ancient city of Inwa. Here we took a horse cart tour of what used to be the capital and saw about 209323 more temples. Some of them were pretty cool.

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Our ride around town

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The most interesting part for me was seeing the rural life so close to the city of Mandalay. There were people growing cheerots, a type of cigarette that is quite popular and life just looked really really peaceful.

As we boarded the tuk tuk we were bombarded with children. All the Southeast Asian children have been pretty adorable but Burmese children take the cake in any contest. They are just so excited to see you and love to take pictures!

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Day 64 Getting to know Mandalay

Burma isn't touristed out yet but they have one thing touted out. Transportation. I was greated at the early hour of six a.m. by about twenty shady looking characters yelling and hitting the windows as we pulled in. My favorite welcome to any city.

I later woke up to take a stroll around Mandalay. It was an interesting walk. I booked the same hotel as another traveler in my Yangon guesthouse because he spoke of lodging being kind of hard to sort out and I figured if he had it figured out then it would be a snap if I took the same spot. My check-in was followed with the rudest cold shower ever, they must have imported glacier water, seriously. I then found that I was co-habitating with a cockroach and was magically motivated to find new accommodation. Easy as that.

Having done nothing cultural at all I decided to take in the Moustache Brothers show that evening. The Moustache Brothers you ask? Yes. This is a quite popular comdedy show on the tourist circuit. They used to be rather big in Myanmar working major events, weddings, etc. However, there open condemnation of the government led to one of the brothers being locked up a few times. They joke often about the "KGB" outside the doors and there lack of freedom to say what they want. I think they get on all right with the constant stream of intrigued tourists.

There are conflicting views about the show from those I talked to. Some people expected the brothers to get up stage and just blast those that are in leadership. Obviously this can't be done and those who expect that should re-think what country they are in. Others say there is too much "extra stuff" i.e. dancing and commentary on the country itself. I thought the "extra stuff" was the funniest part. The show before it went underground was a variety show, so I expected some of that variety. The only thing that I was dissapointed with was the constant "photo" opportunities and blog whoring. Yes, I am writing about you in my travel blog, but I would have done so without the 2093094 requests during the 45 minute show. All and all a good evening out in a country where the lights are often off at 9 when the show started.

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Me with the imprisioned Moustache Brother

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This is the brother who runs the show now as he is the only one who speaks English

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This guy must have been a catch in his day as his wife was the face of lonely planet Burma in the 80s

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The dancing begins

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The far left is a lady and the middle is not...seriously

Day 63 Burma Buses

Waking up I was still tired. Damn, the last few days just exhausted me! I got up and out of my room and readied for my travels to Mandalay that evening. Well sort of...

I spent the better part of a hot day talking with a group of travelers fresh of the plane. They too are English Teachers and one of them had served a spell in Korea. It was nice to sit and stay out of the mid day sun but I am sad to say I did no sight seeing.

I took off to the bus station with a guy from Canada in hopes of saving a few of the growing number of dollars I have spent on cabs in this country. I thought I would just hang out and read my book at the station, but there was no station. Just a group of restaurants and buses. I grabbed a drink of water and hung out with a group of kids for the hour I had before I could get on the bus.

The boys were adorable. One of them loved loved my watch and I would have parted with my five dollar buy from Thailand if it wasn't such a pain to travel around without knowledge of what time it is. Another knew a little English and was able to figure out my name, that I was an English teacher and that I was going to Mandalay at seven. The boy who loved my watch kept making kissy noises at me, I have since then figured out how they beckon people, was very concerned that I would miss my bus so I took off to get on my bus to Mandalay.

The bus was overly cold. Like brrrrrr. I mostly had the seats to myself other than a short spell sitting next to a girl who wanted to write me notes and gave me an apple. She later fell asleep on my shoulder. What do you do in that situation?? Everyone here is too nice.

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My bus bff

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one of the nicest taxis in town...seriously

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Every bus in this country was on its third or so country. I swear I am going to seek out a Burmese mechanic, they must know how to keep anything running.

Day 62 Yangon, Burma

**I preface these posts by saying that I got stupid sick on this trip so I diverge from writing about days and more about events. There were days that I did nothing but sleep and read Harry Potter while steaming my sinuses with Tiger Balm, the most amazing substance on earth!**

Getting to Burma included an early alarm clock set for I don't know....5am or so. I almost had a heart attack as I got out to the airport bus street to find out that a bus to the airport had to pre-booked. I think a little birdy might have mentioned that to me the night but it went in one ear and out the other. Thank god I wasn't the only one who made this mistake. I found two older men that were looking to get there as well and we split a cab.

The Bangkok airport is massive just like the Korean airport except there are about 10923420983 people trying to get where they need to, unlike its Korean counterpart that rarely looks a quarter full. It also is not the ideal place to be tired, hungover and did I say tired? I made it to the gate surprisingly with money, visa and well without my painting from Laos....that got abandoned somewhere, but wasn't it only a matter of time?

Arriving in Yangon is like nothing else. There are no massive highrise bulidings and instead a huge Buddha. Going through the airport I had the same concerns as my fellow travelers. Will I make it through immigration? Are they going to gut my bag? I made it through with only one slight disapointment. I was supposed to be greeted by my guesthouse but instead had to shell out for a taxi. Thems the breaks.

My guesthouse is adorable. The people, the place and the travelers are great. I had a good time getting in and taking a precious nap, did I mention I was tired? Then I decided to not be a loser and head out to the Shwedagon Paya, a huge pagoda complex and the jewel of Yangon.

I spent a few hours walking around taking pictures. I talked with a few people. One being a man who was washing the statues and told me about his travels to the United States to see his son graduate from college. It was fun to take pictures and chat a bit but I was still tired so I sat down for a spell to wait for the sun to set to get some night shots of the pagoda.

As I was waiting a monk sat next to me, introduced himself as Sheyan and explained to me that he was learning English in hopes of becoming an instructor at his monestary. We talked for a long, long time. He asked me questions about my family, my life and what I think will make me happy. I found out that he has a brother and a sister. His mother died when he was young and became a monk at the age of six. He also sees himself as staying in the monestary forever. We then strolled around. He showed me how to pay respect to the Buddha and how to pray and use to bell to alert Buddha to my wishes. It was nice until I couldn't shake him. I really wanted to wander around and take an embarissingly large amount of pictures but couldn't with my monk hanging around. Then he asked me back to his monestary. This first was exciting but did I mention that he was learning English. I thought we were going back right away, looking back I think he wanted me to come another day. I sadly bid farewell to my friend and took off for the guesthouse in hopes of a great nights' sleep.

At the guesthouse however, I was persuaded to sit and have a beer with a few guys outside all coming and going from Burma, so it was a good way to find out information and such.

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A little girl with the traditional bark smeared on her face...

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monk gone hardcore

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Me and my monk friend...

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About 65 tonnes of gold glittering in the night...pretty spectacular and this picture does little justice to the real thing