Day 10 Dali - Shopping and walking around

Today I got a late start and really I have no idea what to do around here other than shop. Maybe I am missing something? I know there are some big tourist sights but the price tag is big too so maybe I will pick one tomorrow and see what that is all about, but for today I want to keep it to wandering around and seeing the town, that in turn seems to be a big mall. Trying to wrangle in my inner shopper I promised myself that I would wait to buy anything until Thursday and today just see if there is anything that catches my eye. By god it works.....after looking at the same stuff for hours and hours I am all but over the "unique buys" here. I am going to get a piece of Dali batik but the rest of the things are the same as all over China and you needn't worry as I did some serious China shopping in Beijing....so I am going to take it easy here and I am sure my pack will appreciate that in a few days when I lugging it around sans a bunch of needless nick knacks!

While most of the place seems to be shopping I did take some pictures of the old town. It is a beautiful place to take stroll.


The North Gate of the old city


What makes Dali a tourist destination is the the old style cobbled streets and buildings


The Chinese love their gambling.


Bai woman selling her goods


Hard at work


Quaint stream outside my guesthouse


Night shot of the pagoda from the roof of my room.

Day 9 Dali

Today I arrived in Dali after a long hard bout of decision making. I really wanted to visit both of the Northern "backpacker" towns of Lijiang and Dali, but I had to settle for one if I want to have any time in Burma and Thailand....

The bus ride to Dali was five hours and okay if only the guy next to me would have been happy with staying in his part of the seat....hmph. I arrived here a little less prepared than usual and probably learned my lesson. I didn't really have a map or reservation. So, after a cab ride to the "old town" I arrived at the one guesthouse that I had an address for....it was gross and far away from everything, so I set off to find a place with internet so I could do some belated research....I then stumbled upon the Sunny Guesthouse, good enough I thought....in hindsight its a bit quiet. There are maybe 8 other people here and they are apart of a group and seem very uninterested in socializing.

BUT the inernet is awesome....something that has been lacking since I left Korea. So, I am using this time to get some stuff done that I have neglected since korea, a little research for Vietnam and some correspondence. I didn't have really high expectations for Dali....just needed to get out of Kunming and away from that hostel dvd room....

Day 8 Kunming - Myanmar failure and boxed puppies

Today I tried for the second time to get a visa for Myanmar. I failed again. I wish I could blame this one on bureaucracy but I can't.....being slightly less than prepared was actually the culprit. I guess the information I had was old and the few directions I got from the guesthouse were not helpful. I ended up walking around questioning random Chinese people by pointing to a dot on a map....after an hour it became quite obvious this wasn't going to work.

So I grabbed some McDonalds for lunch and tried to find the bird and flower market...which really was just a road of people with puppies stuffed in boxes. So after failure number two I took off for the hostel and watched a nauseating number of movies. I guess I will try again in Hanoi, but I wouldn't be surprised if this doesn't happen until the last minute, but I get points for trying, right?


the nice up kept neighborhood of the Bird and Flower Market




Need a puppy?


Funny....that is how I transport my bunnies too!

Day 7 Kunming - Temples

My first day in Kunming was spent wandering. I wanted to check out a temple on the other side of town and as there wasn't a bus that really went out that way I thought I would just head in that direction and see if I could figure it out.

It being Sunday there were many people out and about. I made it up to the street that the temple was on and after hearing that Kunming sites weren't that exciting or large I was mistaken when I noticed a temple down a sidestreet and stopped to take a look and a few pictures. It turned out to be a small Tibetan Buddhist temple. I spent an hour or so there taking pictures and looking around the small grounds. Part of that time was spent hanging out with a little Chinese boy who loved to have his picture taken.


The entrance to my little Tibetan Buddhist Temple




My new little friend


Got a little shy....but don't let this picture fool you. He was a ham!


After saying goodbye to my new friend I decided to keep going up the street to make sure that was the temple, mostly because I didn't pay to go and there really wasn't anyone else there....A few blocks later I arrived at a much larger temple. The Yuantong Temple was much much larger than my earlier find and had obviously had a fire as they were rebuilding much of the middle portion and there were about 109091283910 fire extinguishers.




Ceremonial fish?


A little bit better prepared now for the next fire.


wishing you peace

The temple itself was fairly busy. Nothing too different from what I saw in Korea, although the colors were a little brighter. I had fun putzing around and taking more pictures. It was an afternoon wellspent for such a unremarkable tourist location. From what I hear Kunming lacks attractions but is mostly used as a base for other places to the north. I too will soon head north to Dali on Tuesday after I try again to get myself a Myanmar visa on Monday.


Buddha himself


This guy had a tough Saturday night and fell asleep waiting to avail his next customers fortune.


On my walk back to the hostel I stopped to listen to the haunting tunes from this cross dressing couple....strange.

Day 6 Chengdu to Kunming - A Chinese Train Journey

Train travel in Chiner is not high up on my list of favorites thus far. I had a hard sleeper, which wasn't too hard...but the journey was.

I had a lower bunk and I guess that it is normal for other passengers to hang out on your bunk because it is the only one in which someone can sit up on. This is a pleasure you pay extra for by the way as it is the most expensive bunk out of the three choices. I had heard conflicting reviews about whether this was going to happen or not. One guy told me that an old chinese man stayed on his cot and didn't move for the entire 25 hour journey using the little table to play cards. Another traveler told me that if I spread my stuff out that I would have no problems. So that is what I did...I didn't use the luggage rack but cozied up to my big pack and day pack for the entire journey and little in the way of issues. I think a man sat on the far corner to put his shoes on at one point but I can't be sure....so it obviously wasn't a problem.

There were other pleasantries that I could have done without. The sketchy lady eyeing me everytime I unlocked my bag made me so nervous that I didn't leave my stuff alone for the entire trip. I had heard tales of theft issues and didn't want to have something stolen on a trip to the restroom or hot water heater. I stayed put for 25 hours and let me tell you that at hour 23 when I thought we were supposed to be there I was pretty watch concious. Another annoyance were the children. I felt bad for this couple as they were obviously too young to deal with their child but at three different times, once in the middle of the night he stood screaming for I don't know how long while they argued loudly about who was going to deal with him......annoying, that's an understatement. But these are the joys of travel. However, I don't think I will go out of my way to partake in this fun again....


My home for 20 hours of just sitting/laying.


My compartment after the screaming baby and disfucntional couple had vacated.


The hallway were men sat, played cards and smoked the trip away.

Day 5 Chengdu - Panda Love

Today I spent the morning with some of the most adorable creatures in China at the Woolong Nature Reserve in Chengdu. This was the biggest reason I wanted to come to Chengdu as I had seen pictures in a National Geophraphic and couldn't resist those sad Panda eyes for too long. Yes, they are PANDAS!

We left bright and early to get there for feeding time. I guess if you wait until after lunch you are there for panda naptime which to me sounds a bit boring.

The tour lasted about three hours and we got incredibly close to some of the bears, much closer than any zoo in America. We started with adults and continued through the park seeing younger and younger bears. When we got to the nursery we saw a two babies who had been born just a few months ago. They were adorable climbing around each other and playing with their toys.

At the end of the tour we watched a panda mating video and saw just what it takes to fight natural selection. Because these bears lack the stamina most panda babies are made using artificial insimination. They say their diet is probably to blame for that lack of stamina and so you wonder if an animal can't get up enough energy to mate is it supposed to still be around???

We also witnessed a panda giving birth for the first time. It was crazy. This tiny rat pops out of this huge panda and the poor bear is so freaked out that she swats and hits the baby around the pen until one of the doctors run in there and grab it. I guess maternal insticts kick in eventually and the bear is much nuturing the following times but, the first attempt was quite violent. I guess I would be freaked out too if I dropped a baby one day and didn't know I was pregnant. Poor mama bear.


The first stop was hanging out with the "older" pnadas. After years of people gawking over me as I munched my breakfast I too would adopt this position when they came around....

the rest of the pandas we saw were of the littler variety. I seriously took over 250 pictures, all on flickr if you are really that curious. But here are the best ones in my opinion.



















After the Pandas I boarded my first and hopefully last Chinese train....

Day 4 Chengdu - Leshan Buddha

Today I went on a day trip with a few people from the hostel to see the world's largest buddha, and we named him Lenny Buddha.

There were many people from the hostel that were headed in the same direction who had booked a driver, but we elected to take the public transportation option in hopes of saving a few Yuan. Yeah, we got there and all but spent about the same...oh well. It was part of the adventure!

The people I went there with were recovering from illnesses and we found ourselves evaluating each route by how many stairs were involved. None of us were excited about the huge and numerous amount of stairs it took to get back up from the bottom of the ginormous statue!

There isn't much else to say about the Buddha other than he was big and pretty cool to see. We then had a quick lunch and journeyed back to Chengdu for some Indian food. Note to those that have yet to come to China to get your Indian fix. Green beans = peas. I was not impressed, but thankfully the person next me wasn't either and we organized a swtich! So dinner saved! Headed back for another early night as tomorrow is the main event! PANDAS! PANDAS!


The Big Buddha's name isn't a joke. He is big. I think his ear was taller than me....


Another shot of "Lenny"


Look! There is a person in that bell!


In addition to the big guy himself there were many little buddhas on the walk down to the foot of the buddha.


Pretty shot from one of the gardens


There were many many signs stuck around the walkways written in Chinese that I like to think had buddhist teachings and well wishings but were more likely signs to tell you where the exits and bathrooms were...


Finally, I visited my first rated toilet in china. This was a whopping three stars and housed one western style loo. I have heard tale of five star toilets fully equipped with television.

Day 3 Chengdu - Wuhu Shrine and Tibetan Awesomeness..

I woke up at noon. No joke! I was some serious type of tired and slept for almost ten hours. My plan for the day was to lay around and try to take it easy but the newness of travel got the best of me and before I knew it I was off to visit the Wuhou Shrine and Tibetan Street.

The bus was easy enough, a bit squished but about 20 minutes later I arrived at the Shrine and thanks to my Panda Card that I got from the hostel I was in free and clear, which is good because if I had handed over 60 Yuan (about 9 dollars) to see this I would have been disappointed! It wasn't that it was a let down. There were some beautiful trees and the main shrine itself was interesting, but if it hadn't been free and near the Tibetan street I probably wouldn't have visited.


Pretty Tree


Little boy posing at the shrine...this shot took his parents about 15 minutes and two rounds of tears.


Adorable teahouse


This man ran around frightening tourists....


Look mom....the country's best yogurt in China!

Now going to Tibet is something that is high on my list. Unfortunately the time of year I am here leaves much to be desired. From what I read many of the activites and people are packed up for the winter. So, with it being pretty difficult and expensive due to restrictions that require two hired tour guides per group I gave in and said another day. BUT! I love me some Tibetanness. So, as I meandered around the Tibetan street to buy a few things and see the people I couldn't stop smiling. They are all so happy. There were many monks and people from minority chinese tribes in traditional dress milling around. I stopped in a few stores and people were happy to see me and nice, go figure Korea.....I couldn't help myself from buying a few things. I got a great scarf that I feel has made all the difference in me not shivering around the hostel. Also, one woman in particular was very interested in talking to me even though we couldn't really talk, so I bought an adorable bracelet, wall hangy and tibetan prayer flags (something I have been wanting for sometime, no, I am not sure why....). All this and I don't think I broke a 10 spot....China with adequate luggage allowance could be a truly scary experience for me and my credit card.


A Mao inspired pose


A little workshop in Tibetantown


I love watching monks do everyday things....this guy is waiting for the bus...


Hailing a cab...

I now have more of an interest in getting my act together and getting to Tibet! I know that is weird to say at the beginning of what is going to be about six months on the road....but you can't do everything at once and so that always leaves you dreaming even when you are someplace pretty fantastic that moment!

Day 2 Chengdu

Arriving Chengdu is an experience that if I had done previous to my stint in Korea I would have found terribly difficult and unnerving. However, after living in a country where I could not really speak the language little things like that don't seem to bother me as much anymore and even with a delay or two I made it and the hostel and so far it's great. From the grittiness of KL's Chinatown to the palacial Sim's Cozy Garden Hostel. The rooms are big with storage lockers and outlets. I am in heaven! The people are more social as well. I came down to have some dinner and found myself out to karaoke a few hours later with two girls from Germany and a guy from Barcelona.

I feel like I am on the karaoke tour of the world. I have now sang in Japan, Korea, America (both bar and private room) and now China. This is all from someone who has little to no desire to sing in front of people but hey, it sounded fun at the moment. We walked around for what seemed to be forever in search of a local hang out with public Kareokee. A cab ride and a few offers to come to their private KTV where they will order both girls and boys for us?!?! we found ourselves at a bar with about 9 Chinese people performing their favorite chinese pop tunes on the love stage. Now I wish I had grabbed my camera because only photographs can portray the type of evening we had in store.

After getting a few beers two people took off to find food. This left me and one of the German girls to find songs and get ready to preform. However, the group of Chinese departed and that left us to sing. While we had provided a list of songs I don't think they could find any of them because they started out playing Michael Jackson and gesturing to us that it was our turn. We then reluctantly took the mics. We stayed up there for what had to be 20 minutes serenading the staff who were running around spraying each other with silly string....What songs did we sing? Well, a nice balance of old shit I have heard on VH1's flashback to the 80's and things that were popular when I was in middle school. A little Backstreet Boys, Britney Spears and Eric Clapton. It was strange, surreal and an appropriate hello to China.

Getting back to the hostel at 2:30 I decided to take it easy the next day with ambitions to just stay around the hostel and watch a movie. I still feel exhausted from ending work/packing/moving/goodbyeing/flying. I am not sure when I will finally feel rested, it would be great if it was sooner than later.